How to choose the LCD TV

With so many deals in the premises of appliances is common that one in doubt about what to choose, why and how. It is not easy because each manufacturer we are filled with colored lights and exorbitant values ​​that show their glorious product as the best in the market, but there is every reason to doubt his veracity and the need for a critical eye is essential. There are several things to consider and this post will try to help and guide a bit in that sense, buying an LCD in our country (Argentina) and the rest of Latin America is expensive, we pay premiums that are not consistent with the manufacturing cost product, then we have to choose good or we will be more expensive than we imagined. It is also easy to let this article be outdated soon because the technology changes every day so before reading this review, if you arrive by google or external link, see the date. Some tips for choosing LCD then the rest of the note …
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Resolution, Full HD or Medium HD (HD Ready)

The deceptive marketing tends to draw what is not with similar names, so we have the HD Ready 1366×768 pixels giving us that is NOT HD, HD is the format of 1920×1080, not 1200×720, that’s half the famous 720p vs 1080p. So while it is considered a high-quality format is far from being THE current HD format. If the TV says “Full HD” and we see that supports true 1080p, it’s all good, if it says “HD Ready” is probably only get to display 720p which is not bad, very good picture quality and looks perfect. But I clarify this because it definitely is NOT the same.

Interlaced or progressive

Something that helps us understand the subject of resolutions is how you assemble the image, interlacing divides the image into two, first the odd lines, then the even, to make this quickly the audience does not notice any difference, the vision of a can not register the difference, and sees the two at a time (about speed, of course), but depending on the angle you look at the image until you can see a flicker. If we see a progressive image each line is drawn one by one without skipping any, to be the same refresh rate then we will not display 540 lines at a time if not the full HD 1080 line. This helps us to understand what is and what is 1080p 1080i and 720p. HD Ready TVs promise only 720p and 1080p, the 1080p Full HD Note: 1080 is to see connections and cables to use HDMI 1.3, 1.2 can be enough, but with the 1.3 and make sure that nothing goes wrong between the player (eg BluRay) and TV.
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Size Matters

There are two issues with the size, the first is from the hand of the resolution. TVs larger than 37 “Full HD should be left, the bigger physically larger the pixel, the more notice the pixel will be uglier. If a 720p TV we see a million pixels in 1080 we see two million pixel, imagine that on a monitor 46 “, is the size of each pixel of 720p or exactly half the size in 1080? But here is a problem, most people do not have a physical location for such a screen, their needs do not exceed 32 “have become standard.” Agrees Full HD 32 “? depending on individual taste can opt for the cheaper and consistent 720p or try to get on that size a Full HD. In Argentina almost do not bring everything I’ve seen 32 “is 720p, 1080p rarely any that are much more expensive. So you could divide by size-resolution 40″ on, 1080p, 40 ” down, 720p, and voila!

The dynamic contrast vs. static contrast

Another “farce” of marketing is talking about the “contrasts” increasingly seeking the highest. It’s like when talking audio PMPO power or RMS PMPO we all know who invented it to sell a larger number. The principle is basically the same but with contrast. The static contrast is absolute, if they tell you is that 1:5000, does not change, is the maximum contrast that can reach each pixel between black and white absolutes, a 1:1000 contrast is low, a 1:8000 is very good. Especially in scenes from a movie where the lights play an important role is essential that the contrast range is really wide. Now, what happens if we use a backlight? backlight amplifies each pixel, if we go down a dark scene in the light of a bright backlight and we increased it a higher rating. You can not achieve that rank in the same scene, therefore they called “Dynamic Contrast”. Where in a dark scene contrast is obtained and compared with that of the light scene is much higher. So a TV can happen to the miracle 1:26000 contrast “dynamic.” The reality is that those same TVs also have a static range of 1:5000 or similar 1:26000 achieved using dynamic backlight. Do not get confused with this!
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Audio from LCD sucks

It is a standard practice, except for a Sony model that came with the 2.1 included (and does extremely horrible) speakers including in the case of the LCD are very flat and mediocre sound. Usually in the stores is that after you sell your home theater to complement. So basic is to prove not only the video if the audio and require the vendor to allow us to hear such and not with a Home Theater as they do in most outlets. In other cases do not even have connected the audio, I sold my eyes, but when watching a movie one needs to hear. Knowing that all suck in this regard the purchase of an LCD should give the audio equipment. This has an extra problem. Most existing speakers and Home Theaters at the home of anyone with an analog input. LCDs have a way out, hopefully, SPDIF, PCM is digital audio, need to be decoded o. .. fuck. As one does not want to “fuck” has two options, or change the Home Theater in a modern or use the headphone output, analog, and installed some speakers 2.1, more than enough for the living of the majority. If instead you prefer to use the full potential of 5.1, should opt for LCD has analog outputs (rare) or, as I said above, buy a new one.

The tuner will not help you in the future

It is a great truth, mainly to tune in high definition digital television, but you know what? only now the government established a standard way to the Brazilian / Japanese and here we have to use a tuner for TV will air a long time. The issue will be the day that is standard if you buy a TV that day should demand that comes with digital tuner, as this will not happen in the next 5 years … No worry! You can buy the LCD you want, total, we will not have digital broadcast TV for a long time. Oh, and one thing, network TV is terribly wrong like most cable channels, for the simple reason that the signal is 720×576 pixels (maximum) and 4:3. The LCD has at least 1366×768 and 16:9, did not match, the TV is “disappears” and the edges are filled with a blurr (gone) bad.

Conclusion

From since the first recommendation is to enable them to watch TV LCD open to all who can at once, then a DVD, but never, ever, believe what you see when you are the BluRay demo. OBVIOUS that will look good with a promotional video in HD! and always looks good! but the idea is that we use the TV for the day to day and that means 99% of broadcast TV. The second is the extended warranty, I am explicitly deny it, you say “If a pixel burns …” if burning is likely that the warranty is already expired, and if it is burned within the guarantee is for about 3-4 months to see no TV until I return the equipment running. Not if it’s worth, I would not bother me. And finally, remember that an LCD TV is not the panacea of ​​the image, we will not have the home theater is not 4K (4096×2160) or anything, TV is a “little more” than that traditionally used and that’s against everything that seemed so clear in the common TV will no longer be so, except for movies

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